Over the last week, I’ve been working my way cross-country towards the second highest mountain range in the world, Peru’s Cordillera Blanca – or the White Mountains.
The established route from Cajamarca loops west via the seaside city of Trujillo. … [ Read More → ]
I’ve just arrived in Caraz, a mountain town on the edge of the Cordillera Blanca. And after some hard backcountry riding from Cajamarca, I’m ready for a rest and recharge.
The riding was as good as I could have hoped … [ Read More → ]
I hadn’t planned on posting any blog updates until I reached Huaraz, but these last couple of days have been so blissful that I feel compelled to jot something down. Plus, there’s free wifi in the town square in Cajabamba, … [ Read More → ]
This might be the point where the really good stuff begins…
And, for that matter, the big climbs. This relatively short segment from Leymebamba to Cajamarca – just a few hundred kilometres – has managed to squeeze in a 30km … [ Read More → ]
I’m pleased to report that since battling the downpours of the Ecuadorian border, and escaping the mudfest of San Ignacio, not a drop of rain has fallen. My spirits have been high, and Ogre has been a happier bicicleta too. … [ Read More → ]
Thanks to round-the-world motorbikers Bernd and Heidi for creating these route profiles – which are handy on this rollercoaster stretch.
Bernd and Heidi were heading north, so for bikers rolling south, you’ll need to read these jagged profiles from right … [ Read More → ]
Tortoise-like internet connections and a temperamental Mac are hampering blog updates these days. I’m now settled in to my guesthouse in Cajamarca, resting up after crossing the border into Peru, the first instalment of which is recounted here – an … [ Read More → ]
The first 20kms in Peru were bliss. Hardpack dirt. An easy going climb. Friendly folks.
Then came the rain. And then came the mud…
[ Read More → ]
Hardpack dirt morphs into tacky slush in the space of less than a kilometre.
In my obsession to jettison weight, the panniers have now gone. The theory? A light, sleek bike opens up a whole new world of dirt touring scope, as well as simply being more pleasurable to ride. Seek out singletrack. Bunny … [ Read More → ]
With a few days in hand before my camera’s rejuvenated once more – fingers crossed – I figured I’d take a break from the saddle and hop on the bus to Cuenca.
Travelling by bus is quick. Just three back-to-back, … [ Read More → ]