Well, it was, at least a few weeks ago, when 160,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins crammed into every square inch of Isla Magdalena. Now, it’s just the stragglers that are left. A bit like me, really. Always late. Still, they’re …[ Read More → ]
This last week, I’ve swapped fat tyres for trekking poles, to hike through the Torres del Paine National Park – a startling land of granite towers, emerald lakes, clear streams, verdant forests, and seas of aquamarine glaciers (plus a constantly …[ Read More → ]
Its sounds are almost as impressive as the sight itself. An incessant soundtrack of gurgles and murmurs; of deep, resonant rumbles and thunderous crunches. In this frozen river of ice, a soft, ethereal blue light seeps through cracks and crevices, …[ Read More → ]
El Calafate-El Cerrito-Tapi Aike-Cerro Castillo
On the bolt-straight roads of the Argentinian pampa, my handlebars stay true, but my thoughts wander… For this a pensive place, and one that stirs memories and emotion; like a calling to fill this …[ Read More → ]
Note to self: never neglect the road less travelled. It’s so easy to do, in the rush from a to b. For that yearning sense of arrival, we sometimes sacrifice a little of the journey.
Indeed, as much as …[ Read More → ]
Sometimes, it feels ok to stop riding, stretch the legs, and remind myself what life as a biped feels like. Especially when I find myself in a spot like Los Glaciares National Park, in Argentinian Patagonia.
Comparable to Chile’s well …[ Read More → ]
El Chaltén-El Calefate; 220km.
I’ve quickly come to realise that riding in Patagonia involves strategic hops from one windfree or rain-sheltered enclave to another. Like hallowed secrets, the exact locations of these sanctuaries are passed around between the international touring …[ Read More → ]