Vuelta al Cotopaxi, Segunda Parte; Ecuador.

Rising from a highland plateau, 5997m Cotopaxi is often touted as one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It’s almost perfect cylindrical cone is picture-postcard Ecuador, and makes for an epic circular ride… la Vuelta al Cotopaxi.

There’s several ways to get to there from Tumbaco’s Casa de Ciclistas, where I’ve been based. If you’re in a hurry, you can chance your luck on the Panamerican and tussle with Latin American traffic. Alternatively, you can pick your way along the quieter backroads via Sangolqui, negotiate some Ecuadorian cobbles and emerge onto dirt. Lastly, you can stay high, and circle around Pintag, ‘hickabiking’ your way through the backdoor of the National Park. This account involves the latter…

I was fortunate enough to share this mini-adventure with Michael Dammer, one of a brotherly trio of legendary Ecuadorian climbers. Aside from pioneering new routes, ‘Los Dammers‘ also run an organic farm in nearby Pifo, delivering milk, cheese and vegetable boxes to the communities around – more on this wonderful place later…

Our route from Tumbaco to Lasso was 155km in distance, which we comfortably spread out over two and a half days. The first post of photos from this ride can be found here.

DSC_1027.jpg

Naturally, every adventure begins with a good feed. In Ecuador, a soup, main course and juice in a local eatery costs as little as a $1.50. The soups are generally wholesome affairs, with potatoes, corn, vegetables and chunks of grizzly meat floating around for good measure. 

DSC_1032.jpg

Let the big wheels roll! My Ogre is joined by Michael’s Specialized Carve 29er, fitted with a lightweight rack and bungeed-on roll bags. We stock up with rations in Pintag for the days ahead, and take to the road.

DSC_1154.jpg

Our first night is spent under tarp, having picked our way across a series of fields and dirt roads, making small talk at the occasional hacienda.

The following morning, our plan is to skirt round a pine forest, linking up with a series of dirt roads beyond. 

The next handful of kilometres involve sporadic riding, mingled with trapses through long grasses, deep ditch-dodging and a couple of awkward hike ‘n bikes.

DSC_1286.jpg

Volcanoes peek over the ridgetops to either side, like Sincholagua, at 4893m.

DSC_1224.jpg

Here’s Rumiñahui, 4721m, named after the Inca Warrior who led a pocket of resistance against the Spanish in the 16th century.

DSC_1274.jpg

Finally, we emerge into open grassland, dodging a field of bulls bred for the fighting arena, who eye us with anticipation.

DSC_1295.jpg

The occasional passer by provides a chance to check directions. As a farmer himself, Michael has an open, easy way with everyone he meets, greeting them with a cry of ‘compañero!’ Our ‘caballos de metal’ – metal horses – are looked upon with much amusement.

DSC_1336.jpg

Following a faint trail across a series of fields, the clouds clear and Cotopaxi rises sheer before us. A jubilant moment!

Then the track becomes more established; we’re over the worst of it for now. In fact, the route has proved more straightforward than we expected.

DSC_1440.jpg

Our trail wends its way towards the foot of the volcano, as we enter the park to the east of the main gate.

DSC_1515.jpg

The plateau here is at 3800m, and the water is clean enough to drink…

DSC_1698.jpg

Lichen rings = clean air.

DSC_1714.jpg

And my favourites flora, the aquatic-like Club Mosses, swaying gently in the wind.

DSC_1593.jpg

As we close in on Cotopaxi, there’s even opportunity for a singletrack diversion.

After detouring to the fancy Hostal Tambopaxi for lunch, we cut back across the plains, following a dirt road on the eastern side of Cotopaxi, which will loop us round the volcano.

DSC_1757.jpg

When the sun shines, navigation is straightforward, hemmed in by Cotopaxi to one side and Cubillan to the other. But when the clouds draw in, a topographic map and a GPS are handy bits of gear to ensure we’re where we think we are. 

DSC_1675.jpg

Scotland? At 4000m, that is…

DSC_1800.jpg

Later, we decide to make a shorcut across some boggy fields, culminating in a river crossing.

DSC_1817.jpg

More challenging morcels of singletrack keep us entertained. 

Eventually we close in on Hacienda el Tambo, a forlorn farmhouse set on the fringes of the moors.

There, we ask for a floor to sleep on – and crash out almost immediately.

DSC_1937.jpg

This is real horse riding territory.

DSC_1995.jpg

Clear morning views greet us the next day, as we make our way across El Morro.

Cotopaxi. This is what we came for…

DSC_2066.jpg

Soon the clouds are back, and we’re following a series of horse tracks across open moorland, mined with deep, peaty cuts.

Land of Ponchos – I’m liking the stripes.

DSC_2096.jpg

4037m and climbing… Unfortunately there are no topographical basemaps for Ecuador. If anyone is interested, I have the gpx file for this route…

DSC_2085.jpg

Going light. My Porcelain Rocket framebag is admired by gear-savvy Michael… A well practised backpack builder, I’m sure it won’t be long before he’s whittled something up of his own.

DSC_2079.jpg

The Ogre forges on, through gloopy mud and cowshit…

DSC_2098.jpg

After a gutsy push onto a ridgetop, a horseback rider emerges from the mist and points us onwards…

Finally, we crest the windy pass, 4200m in elevation, and begin to reap the benefits of our toils.

Initially, the dirt road is gouged with tyre-grabbing rutts and fissures.

DSC_2229.jpg

Then it opens out once more, as we emerge back into sunshine. Down, down, and down…

And more down… 1400m of rip roaring, 100% dirt descent awaits us. Yes, we are happy riders.

DSC_2275.jpg

We celebrate our arrival in Lasso, a settlement on the Panamerican Highway, with a hearty meal. Thanks La Marcella for driving two tired but very content riders home!

16 thoughts on “Vuelta al Cotopaxi, Segunda Parte; Ecuador.

    1. While Out Riding Post author

      Thanks Alex. I’ve downloaded the OSM tiles for Ecuador…. but no luck getting them on the Garmin so far. The level of detail is pretty good, but they’re not topographical. The best option seems to be the printed 1 50 000 topos (though the accuracy is smudged). Some people scan those and load them in somehow.

      Reply
        1. While Out Riding Post author

          Thanks Alex, I’ll try it. It’s early days in the world of GPS for me, so I have to get my head round things. A friend of mine also just had some success with OSM and Ecuador – he wrote:

          I have found the files to make it work, tested them with my Garmin Dakota 10 and it is working. Here are the links:

          http://mapas.alternativaslibres.es/descargas.php

          You basically download a zip with a file inside called GMAPSUPP.IMG and copy it in the /Garmin folder of your GPS and then enable it in the Setup -> map -> select map.

          Reply
  1. Simon G

    ooh…strong memories of Cotopaxi…haven’t felt so bad after a day on the mountain than that day. Looks gorgeous as usual.
    ///S

    Reply
  2. Maureen

    Cass–Just wanted to once again tell you how much I love your blog. Your writing and pictures inspire me to want to go out and have my own bikepacking adventures. Thanks for sharing your amazing adventures.
    Maureen

    Reply
  3. Eric

    Awesome loop Cass, that lenticular cloud photo on Cotopaxi is insane. I climbed it years back and have looking down photos of part of your route. sweet…

    Reply
  4. Marcela

    Hola Don Cass, Hermosas las fotos y las historias! Rico oirlo de ambos lados. Aqui tu compañero Michael, es el hombre feliz con esa aventura… avisanos cuando estes por Riobamba para ver si nos unimos una parte… un abrazo desde Palugo, Marcela

    Reply
  5. Gary

    Hey! I’m in Steamboat. I have 30 minutes on the computer here at the library and wanted to check in on you. My trip is going great. As pretty as my riding has been,so far, I think yours has me beat! I’ll check in via email when I have more time.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *